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TDI YJ Build

214K views 640 replies 80 participants last post by  CJoe7 
#1 · (Edited)
Basic build direction for what was later dubbed "BOBCAT": No lift diesel YJ on 35's built for the rocks

Where I am now:
-Ford 8.8 with auburn
-Dana 30 with lock right
-4.56 gears and 35's
-Boat sides
-High lined front and rear
-4" or more of lift

Current build plans are really quite simple... only 3 main aspects:
1. 93 YJ
2. 98 Jetta TDI
3. 84 4runner
GOAL: make them 1 by April!

***All TDI SPECIFIC info in this thread will be posted in red to make for easy scanning for those searching for TDI info***
***Look for red posts... and the posts shortly after them as I usually only "RED" the first post of a topic***
 
#2 · (Edited)
Caution:

My build direction is nothing if not different. I will be doing things that might cause brand loyalists to lose their cool. If you are a hardcore Jeep/Toy/whatever person I get that... I'm a hardcore Honda person... however when was the last time you saw a Prelude on the trail? I'm going to commit some brand mixing sins in the 4x4 world. If you don't agree with my build that's fine... but if you can open your mind a little this should be an interesting build to watch!
 
#3 ·
Sounds cool, I get the VW TDI + Jeep, but where does the 4runner fit in? Axles? (D30 +8.8 v/s Toy?) Toy transmission and dual Toy cases?
 
#5 ·
Started out with a freebee wrecked stock 4.0 yj with 240k on the odo... and initially had the idea of eventually running 1tons, 40ish tires and a cummins 4bt.

Piled miles on it stock for a while(over 300K now), and two years later I found myself wheeling on 33s and running with a group of Jeeps on 37's to 40's. I hung... surprisingly well, although not without everything I had.

After some time on the trails I have refocused my build significantly. I ditched the whole "BIG" theory for a "small" one. Now I'm building to try and keep up with the big boys in a low COG on 35's rig. I'm going to try to stay low and small while minimizing the downsides of that as much as possible

I started by boat siding and high lining, and I am now on 35s. Next goals are lowering it and a flat belly without a body lift. That's going to require re-tunneling the floor. Considering my long term goals of engine swap and possible driveline changes I was hesitant to do all the custom work just to have to do it again in the future. So I was forced to pull the trigger and do the engine driveline stuff now.

I decided on a VW 1.9L TDI engine, and toyota driveline from transmission to axles. And so the shopping began. Friday I bought a 98 Jetta TDI in running condition, Saturday I came home with an 84 4runner with a blown engine, and Today I scored an inchworm crawl box mated to marlin 4.7:1 case.

3 straight days laying down cash means it's time to start stripping the three and start selling stuff to recoup a bit.
 
#6 ·
Input on everything is welcome... I don't have all the details in concrete yet, so feel free to put in your constructive $.02.

I am very limited on my experience with toyota driveline stuff so definitely don't hesitate.

The TDI world is a new venture for me, so knowledge is definitely appreciated there as well.

My first question... Inchworm crawl box vs. Marlin crawl box. I was thinking of selling the inchworm and building a new one out of my 4Runner case with marlin's help... partially for the 10 degree clocking I can get to help with the flat belly, but am also under the impression it is of better quality. Any thoughts?
 
#32 ·
Input on everything is welcome... I don't have all the details in concrete yet, so feel free to put in your constructive $.02.

My first question... Inchworm crawl box vs. Marlin crawl box. I was thinking of selling the inchworm and building a new one out of my 4Runner case with marlin's help... partially for the 10 degree clocking I can get to help with the flat belly, but am also under the impression it is of better quality. Any thoughts?
Noticed you were looking at a 10 degree doubler, not to hi-jack, but check this out: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1009496&highlight=inchworm

Could work very nice with your setup........
 
#8 · (Edited)
You have a red star, so it should let you upload pics. Click "Post Quick Reply" >> "Go Advanced">> Click on insert picture (paperclip icon)>> another dialog box opens>> select files (upload photos from computer or URL) then click "upload". Once files have uploaded, click arrow next to paperclip>> insert all.
 
#9 ·
I'm going to get adapters from Acme. Their main gig is Samurai's but they make adapters for the 4-cyl toyota transmissions as well.

Although you can make jeep transmissions work using toyota input shafts, I opted for the change to toyota due to the dual case options, and the fact that I had been considering toyota axles. Running all toyota seemed like the best, simplest, and most affordable option.

The toy axles are interesting to me for reasons any dana 30 jeep owner should understand.... Anything and everything is better than that thing. I had to rebuild mine last winter, and am in need of shafts right now, so it's either spend some cash on molly shafts or get rid of it.

I had the 8.8 in the rear, but finding a replacement for the dana 30 that suited my build needs of good clearance, not overly wide, and strong enough to take some abuse trying to keep up with the 40's left me with few options... short of custom axles. A pair of Toyota 8" axles fits my build direction, has legit aftermarket build-ability, and could be sourced easily and affordably.
 
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#15 ·
I recommend you take your worthless spamming ass and go overdose on fucking crank you piece of shit motherfucker. You are less than scum, you're mum and dad hate you, you are not a unique or beautiful snowflake. You need to do the world a favor and go choke yourself.
 
#16 ·
I almost went with the TDi in my CJ-10. I think it is a pretty decent platform. There are a couple threads on here about TDi swaps in general, and the TDi club has a lot of technical knowledge.

The toyota drivetrain seems to be the best choice, at least I think so. Light, fairlu robust, and easy to adapt to the TDi. Lots of aftermarket support. I would look into clutches and get the biggest, baddest clutch you can, I think Marlin has some HD choices. The TDI and a heavy Jeep are gonna play hell with that thing.

That being said, I would keep the Jeep as light as I could. The TDi is not the most powerful motor in the world, and I think you will be much happier with the performance if you keep it light. If you are one of those 15 miles of tube in the cage, 3/8s inch rocker sliders because I can, have a full snap on tool case, carry 15 of each spare part possible guys (and I love those guys, especially when I break something), you might not be happy with the performance of the TDi.

I would also gear the crap out of it. 3k cruise RPM in overdrive gear the crap out of it. The motors hit peak HP at 4k, and you are going to need to keep it spinning when pushing a brick of a Jeep down the road. There are some pretty big vans in Europe that use this motor, but they keep the RPMs up in them as well. Try not to fall into the "its a diesel, it likes to cruise at 1800 RPM like my buddys Cummins that gets 83 MPG pulling 58k uphill" mentality.

Should be a cool build! I like Toy axles in Jeeps, especially when you are trying to keep it light.
 
#17 ·
Thanks Gavan, I've been web crawling all over the place, and although there isn't much out there on TDI to jeep swaps, there is a lot out there in TDI to everything else swaps.

I haven't given the gearing a whole lot of thought, I know this engine likes to rev more than the typical diesel, and the jeep isn't the lightest or most aerodynamic vehicle out there. I figured I'd start with whatever the toy axles have and use some real experience driving the tdi jeep to get an idea of where the engine is going to like it, and then make changes at that point.
 
#23 ·
I am excited about this... I think as been said, you keep the jeep light, you should do ok. If 35s are your end goal, I think probably 5.29s in the yota axles will hold up ok. The 1.9 TDI isn't a torque monster, so I think you should be ok... hopefully haha...

As for the crawlboxes, sell what you can't use and have one built to fit your needs with those funds. Win/Win situation if you ask me.
 
#25 ·
FRIENDS are all on board with it!

Thanks for the thoughts on the axles. I was aware of the width issues. I am considering what to do, but axles are going to be one of the last things I address in this phase of build. Focusing on the bigger challenges at the moment. Primary goal right now is to get the engine/trans/t-case mounted... then address the logistics of wiring and making the engine functional. That's very interesting with the $600 housing... maybe I'll look into that before I shell for some longs. I hadn't actually considered that option... I was balancing the other spacer/hub/wheel options... and a ifs rear axle.

As far as the suspension, I am staying on leafs for the moment, just because I've already bit off enough for the moment. Next major phase will be linking the front with coil-overs and shortening the frame up front... cause staying this low with small tires I need to address the approach angle, and I am going to HATE my leafs sticking out the front.

Thanks for getting the wheels turning about the front axle housing!
 
#33 ·
Well... so much for stripping the toy and starting the vw today... went snowboarding instead... but I'm going to go try and strip the toy this evening.

T-case plans... picked up a toyota geared case with 4.7:1 and a crawl box in front of that. May make some changes to the crawl box for clocking the case depending on how everything sits in my frame... but will wait till that time comes to make the final call on that.

Thanks Inchworm... was unaware of that, I'll do some looking into it if the time comes that I need to clock it.
 
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