Official PBB Toyota FAQ
Thanks to Entropy and 4RnrRick for compiling and maintaining the FAQ. Before Rick Resigned as a Mod he switched to posts to my name. I really have no idea why he decided to do that. The credit goes to Rick & Entropy, not me.
-steveh
- - - - - - - - - - - Disclaimer - - - - - - - - - - -
Pirate4x4.com Bulletin Board is know for its wealth of information and this Toyota Truck and 4Runner FAQ is designed to list the most common questions and answers that frequently get asked. The information in this post is a collection of everyone’s efforts to provide very accurate and detailed information but the website cannot be held responsible for mistakes. If you find false information and have good proof stating so, please contact the person that posted it so it can get corrected and will not mislead other people. Remember keeping the accuracy of this FAQ is a group effort.
- - - - - - - - - - - Disclaimer - - - - - - - - - - -
Want a PDF file of the Offical PBB Toyota FAQ
Feb 2002 http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=110627 by Entropy
Old school http://www.barneymc.com/toy_root/toytop.htm by Barney
How to to Google to Search .....
:flipoff2: is a freindly smiley.
:flipoff: is NOT a freindly smiley.
And fully expect to get flamed if you ask a question that can be answered in this FAQ! We don't like answering the same question every week, week after week, hence why this FAQ was written, so you better read up if you plan to post questions here.
And for those that like to ask the same old questions, so you don't have to search for them, try these sites.
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/
http://www.yotatech.com/forumindex.php?
http://forums.off-road.com/toyota-suvs-trucks/
They are much "nicer" over there! But if you want hardcore tech - keep reading!
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
2wd Axles – 5Lug by 4RnrRick
Information on 2wd 5-lug 7 1/2" & 8" versions and 4wd 6-lug 8" axles.
ref: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&postid=1876052#post1876052
2wd to 4wd conversion faq the information thread
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=496869
AFM Info - Idle mixture screw drilled out? How to set if back to OEM spec
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=544281#post544281
Ammo Can Dimensions
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=250839&highlight=ammo
Axle info - Toyota
Toyota Mini Truck Front Axle Identification
79-80 no gusset
81-83 short gusset (to u-bolts)
84-85 long gusset (past u-bolts)
Stock Toyota front axle measurements for comparison:
55.5" wide, 29" spring perch centers, '79-85 Toyota trucks and 4runners, SA Hubs
58.25" wide, 29" spring perch centers, '79-85 Toyota trucks and 4runners, IFS Hubs
63.5" wide, (set up for coil springs) 90-97 FJ80 and FZJ80 Landcruisers
'86-95 IFS front end is about 58.5" wide
'93-98 T100 IFS front end is about 65" wide
Toyota Rear Axle Widths:
55" wide, '79-85 4wd trucks/4runners - 6 Lug
58" wide, '86-95 4wd trucks/4runners - 6 Lug
56" wide, '79-95 2wd Trucks - 5 Lug
60.75" wide, '95.5-up Tacomas/4runners
66.75" wide, '93-98 T100 trucks
Axle / Differential Breathers
The actual thread size for toyota breathers is 1/8" British 28 Thread Per Inch.
1/8" NPT thread is close, but it is 27 Thread per inch.
Axle Rebuild Picture Thread, Toyota 8" Front Solid Axle
http://www.birfield.com/~morgan/tech/axle/
Bellhousings - HUGE resource for engine swap bellhousings!!
http://www.jeeps-offroad.com/tech-articles/4740-engine-swap-bellhousings.html
Bellhousing bolt patterns by MarlinCrawler
84' to 03' Toy 5 speed trannies use two bellhousing to transmission bolt patterns.
small 9 bolt pattern
84-88' G52,54 carb 22R
89-95' G58 EFI 22R
85-88' W56 early EFI 22R
89-95' W56 late EFI 22R
96-03' W59 EFI 2.7
large 9 bolt pattern
86-87' R151F EFI Turbo 22R
88-95' R150F EFI 3.0V6
96-03' R150F EFI 3.4V6
Bikini Tops - 4Runners
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=254738
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/SoftTop/index.shtml
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=167640
Birfield Stuff
Separating a birf from and axle:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&postid=334839#post334839
What everyone needs to know about Longfields by desertoy
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=82923&highlight=Longfields
The above list should probably be also applied to any type of aftermarket Birfield / Marfield / Newfield/ Longfield/ Smurfield / WhateverField....
How to change one quickly Camo method
Pull locking hub cap and remove snap ring.
Unbolt seal/felts on back of knuckle.
Unbolt brake caliper and tie out of the way. (can be skipped if you have long brake lines)
Unbolt steering arm. (leave bottom knuckle cap alone)
Pull entire outer knuckle assembly off of axle.
Swap in your parts.
Put it back together.
It's a big-time shortcut since you don't need to mess with the 54mm socket or wheel bearings.
Heres a post showing the slow method - but it "lets" you repack everything...
Longfield 30 spline & hub gear install
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=482812&page=2
Bob length pictures for a 4Runner
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=394500
Bobbing a 4Runner - First Gen
See http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=132555 for a text version of an article I wrote on bobbing the back of a 4runner including the fiberglass top.
Update: Article pictures are now here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=394399
Bobbing a 4Runner (Super-Bob)- First Gen
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62246
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=488188
Bobbing a 4Runner - Second Gen
See: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=80389&highlight=bobbed+4runner for Bob Willians rig.
Bobbing a Bed for an extra cab on a std cab frame
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=109638
Brakes - Bleeding
This is the proper way to bleed your brakes to avoid spongy brakes, etc...
Originally posted by Opp's
----------------------------------------------------
"...This is from the FSM and it works great..."
1. Drivers side rear
2. Passenger side rear
3. Passenger side front
4. Drivers side front
5. LSPV (Load sensing proportioning valve)
----------------------------------------------------
Brake Boosters - Single Vs Dual
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=132252
Brake Boosters - Dual diaphram on First Gen (79-83)
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=564587
Brakes - Drum rebuild
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=509586
Brake Lines
Toyota Fittings are 10mm x 1.00 thread with an inverted flare.
ProComp #7210 are Longer than stock Stainless Steel brake lines. (set of three)
One piece 23" long replacement brake line for the front is Napa #38688
[EDIT: This turns out to be a front line from a 90-96 Nissan 300ZX if you wanna get one from somewhere else.]
The flexible rear brake line (goes from the hardline to the rear axle) is commonly used for extending the front and rear brakes lines since it has one male end and one female end. So when these lines are swapped inline with the stock lines, and you will have plenty of room for extra lift and flexy suspensions. The Napa #38256 is the stock length (19" long) rear flexible brake hose. Napa #36881 is 11" long if you need one a bit shorter.
Good source for custom SS Brakelines (recommended by steveh)
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=449419
Brake Master Cylinder info
In addition to the Rotor swap, some people like to put bigger MCs in so that they have more fluid movement.
In this case, you want to acquire a Master Cylinder for a V6 truck or 4runner. It should be the 1" Bore. This is pretty much a bolt in replacement. Requiring you to move some brake lines slightly at worst.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=251887
Brakes - Rear Disc / Disk Brakes FAQ
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=281059
Brake Rotor Swap – Vented Front
Some folks like to swap out their solid rotors for vented rotors. This is a simple and somewhat inexpensive modification. I did this swap because my brakes were getting very hot and making some very annoying noises. If you can change your brakes you should not have any problem with this swap.
79-80 toyota mini axles -> Rotor bolts onto hub with 6 bolts and the wheel studs are pressed into the hub only. For Land Cruiser vented brake swap you must use 79-80 LC rotors.
81-85 toyota mini axles -> Rotor bolts onto the hub with 2 bolts and the wheel studs are prasses through the hub and is pressed into the rotor. For the Land Cruiser vented rotor swap you must use 81+ LC rotors. Uses Toyota 90942-02053, Dorman #610-264 or Napa 641-3126 wheel studs.
The Landcruiser rotors are wider because they are vented but otherwise fit right on with no other modification besides the need to run a IFS caliper.
The caliper comes in two flavors... one has two larger pistons and two smaller, and another has four pistons that are the same size. The ones with four large pistons would technically give you more braking force. I used the same pads because mine were still fairly new... so you don't need new pads unless yours are low.
Build-Ups, Toyota Project Rigs - Ultimate Collection
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2933348
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=399607
Built Rigs - Whats Your Trucks Specs / Typical / Standard Issue
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=307983
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=121485
Bumpers
Front winch bumper pictures:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&postid=1401801#post1401801
Rear 4Runner Bumpers pictures:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=482618
Bump Stop Tech.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2920419#post2920419
Carb Tuning
how to get it with a toyota carb............
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=165996
Caster Angle - Solid Axle
Stock = is 1°30' ± 45' positive.
Recommended for lifted vehicles with larger tires = 5-7° positive
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5942854#post5942854
Chop saw notching 101 (With pictures)
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=456800
Clutch Master by RocKrawler
Clutch Master Cylinder Bleeding Instructions
I had a biatch of a time when I replaced my clutch master trying to get the darn thing bled. No matter how much I bled it, the pedal was still a sponge. After placing a call to a buddy who works at a Toyota wrecking yard, his mechanic gave me this quick tip and it worked perfect the first time, even if you didnt bench bleed it before bolting it up to the firewall:
1.) Adjust the bracket that pins to the clutch pedal so that it has about 1/4" free play
2.) Fill the Clutch Master cyl resevoir ( duh )
3.) Open the bleeder valve at the slave cylinder ( on the bellhousing for newbies, pass side, follow the hydraulic line from the clutch master down, you'll see it ) and without pumping the pedal, just let it drain until the resevoir is about 1/2 empty.
4.) Close the bleeder and fill the resevoir
5.) Have someone pump the clutch 5 times and hold, open the bleeder at the slave & bleed the system, closing the valve before fluid flow stops ( again for newbies )
6.) Repeat step 5 until there is no more air bubbles when you bleed the system.
If you followed the directions, you should have noticable clutch within 3 bleeding cycles, and be done within 6 cycles, whether or not you bench bled the clutch master before installing.
Combination Turn Signal & Parking Light
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/turnsignal/index.html
Cone Washers
Cone Washers for Aisin or Asco Locking Hubs - 42323-60010
Cone washers for solid axle steering arms - 42323-60020
Cone washers are the washers that are behind the nuts holding on Toyota wheel hubs and steering arms.
Cone washers are a pain in the a$$. Anyone from the dry areas of the southwest will tell you that a good smack on the stud will loosen them up. If you are in or near the Midwest... forget that.
Using one or all of the following (most likely all) you should be able to get them off.
· Soak it in something like PB Blaster
· Put the nut on the stud and hit the nut with a brass drift and hammer
· Use an air chisel - being careful of studs etc
· Wedge a screwdriver or similar into the small slit of the washer
· Beat the hub housing like a red-headed step child with a hard plastic or rubber mallet. If worst comes to worst (and if you are in the Midwest it probably will) then you can try hitting the hub housing itself with a small sledge hammer. At this point you will want to hit it with one anyway. The trick is not hitting hard enough to damage it.
I (toy4crawlin) have heard to apply "Anti Seize" to cone washers to prevent them from sticking.
Crossmembers - Transfer case / T-case
Homemade, Aftermarket, Rotated, Flatbelly, High clearance, etc...
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=634019
Thanks to Entropy and 4RnrRick for compiling and maintaining the FAQ. Before Rick Resigned as a Mod he switched to posts to my name. I really have no idea why he decided to do that. The credit goes to Rick & Entropy, not me.
-steveh
- - - - - - - - - - - Disclaimer - - - - - - - - - - -
Pirate4x4.com Bulletin Board is know for its wealth of information and this Toyota Truck and 4Runner FAQ is designed to list the most common questions and answers that frequently get asked. The information in this post is a collection of everyone’s efforts to provide very accurate and detailed information but the website cannot be held responsible for mistakes. If you find false information and have good proof stating so, please contact the person that posted it so it can get corrected and will not mislead other people. Remember keeping the accuracy of this FAQ is a group effort.
- - - - - - - - - - - Disclaimer - - - - - - - - - - -
Want a PDF file of the Offical PBB Toyota FAQ
Previous Frequently Asked Question Databases Thanks guys!steveh said:
Feb 2002 http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=110627 by Entropy
Old school http://www.barneymc.com/toy_root/toytop.htm by Barney
How to to Google to Search .....
How to use the search feature for three letter words!
Oh please remember that this is Pirate4x4.Izeloz said:
:flipoff2: is a freindly smiley.
:flipoff: is NOT a freindly smiley.
And fully expect to get flamed if you ask a question that can be answered in this FAQ! We don't like answering the same question every week, week after week, hence why this FAQ was written, so you better read up if you plan to post questions here.
And for those that like to ask the same old questions, so you don't have to search for them, try these sites.
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/
http://www.yotatech.com/forumindex.php?
http://forums.off-road.com/toyota-suvs-trucks/
They are much "nicer" over there! But if you want hardcore tech - keep reading!
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
2wd Axles – 5Lug by 4RnrRick
Information on 2wd 5-lug 7 1/2" & 8" versions and 4wd 6-lug 8" axles.
ref: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&postid=1876052#post1876052
2wd to 4wd conversion faq the information thread
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=496869
AFM Info - Idle mixture screw drilled out? How to set if back to OEM spec
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=544281#post544281
Ammo Can Dimensions
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=250839&highlight=ammo
Axle info - Toyota
Toyota Mini Truck Front Axle Identification
79-80 no gusset
81-83 short gusset (to u-bolts)
84-85 long gusset (past u-bolts)
Stock Toyota front axle measurements for comparison:
55.5" wide, 29" spring perch centers, '79-85 Toyota trucks and 4runners, SA Hubs
58.25" wide, 29" spring perch centers, '79-85 Toyota trucks and 4runners, IFS Hubs
63.5" wide, (set up for coil springs) 90-97 FJ80 and FZJ80 Landcruisers
'86-95 IFS front end is about 58.5" wide
'93-98 T100 IFS front end is about 65" wide
Toyota Rear Axle Widths:
55" wide, '79-85 4wd trucks/4runners - 6 Lug
58" wide, '86-95 4wd trucks/4runners - 6 Lug
56" wide, '79-95 2wd Trucks - 5 Lug
60.75" wide, '95.5-up Tacomas/4runners
66.75" wide, '93-98 T100 trucks
Axle / Differential Breathers
The actual thread size for toyota breathers is 1/8" British 28 Thread Per Inch.
1/8" NPT thread is close, but it is 27 Thread per inch.
Axle Rebuild Picture Thread, Toyota 8" Front Solid Axle
http://www.birfield.com/~morgan/tech/axle/
Bellhousings - HUGE resource for engine swap bellhousings!!
http://www.jeeps-offroad.com/tech-articles/4740-engine-swap-bellhousings.html
Bellhousing bolt patterns by MarlinCrawler
84' to 03' Toy 5 speed trannies use two bellhousing to transmission bolt patterns.
small 9 bolt pattern
84-88' G52,54 carb 22R
89-95' G58 EFI 22R
85-88' W56 early EFI 22R
89-95' W56 late EFI 22R
96-03' W59 EFI 2.7
large 9 bolt pattern
86-87' R151F EFI Turbo 22R
88-95' R150F EFI 3.0V6
96-03' R150F EFI 3.4V6
Bikini Tops - 4Runners
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=254738
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/SoftTop/index.shtml
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=167640
Birfield Stuff
Separating a birf from and axle:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&postid=334839#post334839
What everyone needs to know about Longfields by desertoy
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=82923&highlight=Longfields
The above list should probably be also applied to any type of aftermarket Birfield / Marfield / Newfield/ Longfield/ Smurfield / WhateverField....
How to change one quickly Camo method
Pull locking hub cap and remove snap ring.
Unbolt seal/felts on back of knuckle.
Unbolt brake caliper and tie out of the way. (can be skipped if you have long brake lines)
Unbolt steering arm. (leave bottom knuckle cap alone)
Pull entire outer knuckle assembly off of axle.
Swap in your parts.
Put it back together.
It's a big-time shortcut since you don't need to mess with the 54mm socket or wheel bearings.
Heres a post showing the slow method - but it "lets" you repack everything...
Longfield 30 spline & hub gear install
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=482812&page=2
Bob length pictures for a 4Runner
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=394500
Bobbing a 4Runner - First Gen
See http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=132555 for a text version of an article I wrote on bobbing the back of a 4runner including the fiberglass top.
Update: Article pictures are now here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=394399
Bobbing a 4Runner (Super-Bob)- First Gen
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62246
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=488188
Bobbing a 4Runner - Second Gen
See: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=80389&highlight=bobbed+4runner for Bob Willians rig.
Bobbing a Bed for an extra cab on a std cab frame
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=109638
Brakes - Bleeding
This is the proper way to bleed your brakes to avoid spongy brakes, etc...
Originally posted by Opp's
----------------------------------------------------
"...This is from the FSM and it works great..."
1. Drivers side rear
2. Passenger side rear
3. Passenger side front
4. Drivers side front
5. LSPV (Load sensing proportioning valve)
----------------------------------------------------
Brake Boosters - Single Vs Dual
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=132252
Brake Boosters - Dual diaphram on First Gen (79-83)
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=564587
Brakes - Drum rebuild
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=509586
Brake Lines
Toyota Fittings are 10mm x 1.00 thread with an inverted flare.
ProComp #7210 are Longer than stock Stainless Steel brake lines. (set of three)
One piece 23" long replacement brake line for the front is Napa #38688
[EDIT: This turns out to be a front line from a 90-96 Nissan 300ZX if you wanna get one from somewhere else.]
The flexible rear brake line (goes from the hardline to the rear axle) is commonly used for extending the front and rear brakes lines since it has one male end and one female end. So when these lines are swapped inline with the stock lines, and you will have plenty of room for extra lift and flexy suspensions. The Napa #38256 is the stock length (19" long) rear flexible brake hose. Napa #36881 is 11" long if you need one a bit shorter.
Good source for custom SS Brakelines (recommended by steveh)
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=449419
Brake Master Cylinder info
In addition to the Rotor swap, some people like to put bigger MCs in so that they have more fluid movement.
In this case, you want to acquire a Master Cylinder for a V6 truck or 4runner. It should be the 1" Bore. This is pretty much a bolt in replacement. Requiring you to move some brake lines slightly at worst.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=251887
Brakes - Rear Disc / Disk Brakes FAQ
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=281059
Brake Rotor Swap – Vented Front
Some folks like to swap out their solid rotors for vented rotors. This is a simple and somewhat inexpensive modification. I did this swap because my brakes were getting very hot and making some very annoying noises. If you can change your brakes you should not have any problem with this swap.
79-80 toyota mini axles -> Rotor bolts onto hub with 6 bolts and the wheel studs are pressed into the hub only. For Land Cruiser vented brake swap you must use 79-80 LC rotors.
81-85 toyota mini axles -> Rotor bolts onto the hub with 2 bolts and the wheel studs are prasses through the hub and is pressed into the rotor. For the Land Cruiser vented rotor swap you must use 81+ LC rotors. Uses Toyota 90942-02053, Dorman #610-264 or Napa 641-3126 wheel studs.
The Landcruiser rotors are wider because they are vented but otherwise fit right on with no other modification besides the need to run a IFS caliper.
The caliper comes in two flavors... one has two larger pistons and two smaller, and another has four pistons that are the same size. The ones with four large pistons would technically give you more braking force. I used the same pads because mine were still fairly new... so you don't need new pads unless yours are low.
Build-Ups, Toyota Project Rigs - Ultimate Collection
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2933348
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=399607
Built Rigs - Whats Your Trucks Specs / Typical / Standard Issue
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=307983
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=121485
Bumpers
Front winch bumper pictures:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&postid=1401801#post1401801
Rear 4Runner Bumpers pictures:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=482618
Bump Stop Tech.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2920419#post2920419
Carb Tuning
how to get it with a toyota carb............
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=165996
Caster Angle - Solid Axle
Stock = is 1°30' ± 45' positive.
Recommended for lifted vehicles with larger tires = 5-7° positive
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5942854#post5942854
Chop saw notching 101 (With pictures)
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=456800
Clutch Master by RocKrawler
Clutch Master Cylinder Bleeding Instructions
I had a biatch of a time when I replaced my clutch master trying to get the darn thing bled. No matter how much I bled it, the pedal was still a sponge. After placing a call to a buddy who works at a Toyota wrecking yard, his mechanic gave me this quick tip and it worked perfect the first time, even if you didnt bench bleed it before bolting it up to the firewall:
1.) Adjust the bracket that pins to the clutch pedal so that it has about 1/4" free play
2.) Fill the Clutch Master cyl resevoir ( duh )
3.) Open the bleeder valve at the slave cylinder ( on the bellhousing for newbies, pass side, follow the hydraulic line from the clutch master down, you'll see it ) and without pumping the pedal, just let it drain until the resevoir is about 1/2 empty.
4.) Close the bleeder and fill the resevoir
5.) Have someone pump the clutch 5 times and hold, open the bleeder at the slave & bleed the system, closing the valve before fluid flow stops ( again for newbies )
6.) Repeat step 5 until there is no more air bubbles when you bleed the system.
If you followed the directions, you should have noticable clutch within 3 bleeding cycles, and be done within 6 cycles, whether or not you bench bled the clutch master before installing.
Combination Turn Signal & Parking Light
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/turnsignal/index.html
Cone Washers
Cone Washers for Aisin or Asco Locking Hubs - 42323-60010
Cone washers for solid axle steering arms - 42323-60020
Cone washers are the washers that are behind the nuts holding on Toyota wheel hubs and steering arms.
Cone washers are a pain in the a$$. Anyone from the dry areas of the southwest will tell you that a good smack on the stud will loosen them up. If you are in or near the Midwest... forget that.
Using one or all of the following (most likely all) you should be able to get them off.
· Soak it in something like PB Blaster
· Put the nut on the stud and hit the nut with a brass drift and hammer
· Use an air chisel - being careful of studs etc
· Wedge a screwdriver or similar into the small slit of the washer
· Beat the hub housing like a red-headed step child with a hard plastic or rubber mallet. If worst comes to worst (and if you are in the Midwest it probably will) then you can try hitting the hub housing itself with a small sledge hammer. At this point you will want to hit it with one anyway. The trick is not hitting hard enough to damage it.
I (toy4crawlin) have heard to apply "Anti Seize" to cone washers to prevent them from sticking.
Crossmembers - Transfer case / T-case
Homemade, Aftermarket, Rotated, Flatbelly, High clearance, etc...
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=634019