Project: Monster Buggy

[redranger4.0]

Originally Posted by skipped_Link

Yes, but the good news is I saved a ton of cash by switching to geico



My theory is with the right spacers, & the bolt tight there should be no leverage on the bolt, only "shear", I could be wrong, maybe one of the mecanicle engineers will chime in, I cannot give good explination other than by looking at it I think the rod end will be the weak link,

I would say you suck at constructive criticism but you have a valid thought.

Im only a Mech Eng student, but the theory behind a bolted joint is that the bolt shouldnt have any shear forces on it, in all technicality. That it is the clamping force of the bolt with friction is what gives it strength. So the bolt shouldnt matter as long as the bolt itself can take the clamping force needed for it to work. Now that is in a perfect world. In the non perfect world. Aka the real world, there is going to be some shear on the bolt, which is why a larger bolt is better. Now if someone wants to jump in and correct me feel free, but that seems to be what I remember from Strength of Materials.

[wyldstallyn73]

DAMMIT!! thought than when I got to my home computer I would be able to see the pics--I can only see the first 6 or so. Anybody know why??

Skipped, from what I CAN see, those are the exact same axles I have except for three things- 1-mine have planetary reduction hubs, 2-Unfortunately mine are not both steering axles. 3-my center sections dont have as many studs holding them in (early variation??) shit, mine even have the same yellow paint!!

I was thinking of doing the same cut and weld on mine when the time comes. Arent the ends of them a cast piece that is welded to the mild steel housing?? did you cut them where the weld already was, and did you use any special techniques or rod/wire to rejoin them??

[HickTrucksRus]

Originally Posted by gfbgreaser289

how about a build thread on that ford in that avitar?????

I just read his build thread on evolution's forum and damn. the 49 is probably the most bad ass show/mud truck ever.

this video will explain it all. I hope this buggy is a 1/4 as cool as your ford man.

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/8...df91e8770b.htm

[B&L Truggy]

very nice work. you have put some thought into it thats for sure.

[The Twister]

looks awsome ! can't wait for the updates.

[FatMeats12]

skipped,

seem slike I have seen that double ended ram somewhere, did you get it off of surplus center? Curious how good there stuff was.

[skipped_Link]

Originally Posted by redranger4.0

Im only a Mech Eng student, but the theory behind a bolted joint is that the bolt shouldnt have any shear forces on it, in all technicality. That it is the clamping force of the bolt with friction is what gives it strength.

I agree, and stand corrected, If there is a failure, I will post it & see if a conclusion can be drawn.

Originally Posted by wyldstallyn73

I was thinking of doing the same cut and weld on mine when the time comes. Arent the ends of them a cast piece that is welded to the mild steel housing?? did you cut them where the weld already was, and did you use any special techniques or rod/wire to rejoin them??

I'm not sure if the ends are cast or forged, I cut the tubes about 2" in from the factory weld, that way I was welding strictly to the mild steel housing, having two weld seams in one tube was another reason for the truss on the front diff, I did not use any special rod, just LH 7018, I did pre heat it a bit & let it cool slow,

Originally Posted by FatMeats12

seems like I have seen that double ended ram somewhere, did you get it off of surplus center? Curious how good there stuff was.

Yes that is the surplus center ram, just by looking the quality looks ok, we'll see how it takes a beating,
I am running Seans ram from Performance off road on the 49 & like it really well, I just wanted to try these out.

I know I said I would have more pics today, but I forgot the camera at home, maybe I'll make some progress tonight after work, then I'll have somthing new to post tomarrow,

[jrod66]

Looks good brutha, only a two seater? kinda big for a two seater, cool none the less though, I ran a surplus center ram on my rig for a year or so and had no problems with it, I plan on buying two more for the new rig.

[skipped_Link]

Originally Posted by jrod66

only a two seater? kinda big for a two seater

Yeah, I'll deal with it though, shouldn't you be posting another build thread here soon?

I did not really get enough done last night to even say I acomplished anything, however I did remember the camera so more pics,

Here is the clocked t-case & tranny mounts I mentioned earlier,


lower link frame mounts from the top side, here you can see the rod ends & misalighnment spacers,


Upper link frame mounts from the top side, also with rod ends & spacers,


Upper link front diff mounts,


And a pic of the finished motor mount,


A slight change in plans, I've decided to start working on the tranny tunnel & seat mounting, that way I have an idea of how high the B pillar will need to be, so that is what I will be working on tonight,

[CTENG]

Originally Posted by redranger4.0

Im only a Mech Eng student, but the theory behind a bolted joint is that the bolt shouldnt have any shear forces on it, in all technicality. That it is the clamping force of the bolt with friction is what gives it strength. So the bolt shouldnt matter as long as the bolt itself can take the clamping force needed for it to work. Now that is in a perfect world. In the non perfect world. Aka the real world, there is going to be some shear on the bolt, which is why a larger bolt is better. Now if someone wants to jump in and correct me feel free, but that seems to be what I remember from Strength of Materials.

Unfortunately this is incorrect. That bolt will indeed have shear on it. It will be loaded in a combined shear and bending. As long as the nut remains well torqued the bending force will be transfered to the spacer effectively making the bolt diameter equal to the diameter of the spacer with respect to bending. The full shear load will be taken by the bolt itself, but the larger load component will be the bending force.

The strength of this setup will depend on high torque load on the nut as this will put the bolt in preloaded tension and counter some of the bending stress on the compression side of the bolt.

If you were to calculate the friction force, even with clamp-up, over that small area of the spacer face, you would find it is far too small to be effective.

[RawPower]

Originally Posted by skipped_Link

And a pic of the finished motor mount,

I know it will probably be strong enough as it is... but any reason not to plate the sides on either the top or the bottom (or both if you aren't concerned about bolt access)?

I mean... I am under the impression that you are going to fully thrash this thing

[skipped_Link]

Originally Posted by RawPower

I know it will probably be strong enough as it is... but any reason not to plate the sides on either the top or the bottom (or both if you aren't concerned about bolt access)?

I mean... I am under the impression that you are going to fully thrash this thing

Well I know I said completed motor mount, but actually when it comes back apart for finish welding I want to cut a plate that will fit between the two ears, mostly to keep the ears from trying to flex, & keep the plate bolted to the block from bending around the mounting bosses on the block,
Good observation by the way, I guess I'm going to have to try to remember to be more specific,

Oh, and you are correct, this thing will have a beating handed to it every chance I get,

[the glassman]

Here is one of the rotors & the beginning of a rotor/driveline flange adapter,




Drilling the pattern for the rotor to bolt on & the two different flanges,


Parts bolted togeather,


Next came the claiper mounts, I chose GM 1/2 ton calipers for the simplicity of mounting them,

Cutting parts out



Test fit,


Modified caliper mount welded to my flange,
[/quote]


any way we can get some specs on this set up.
Mainly the adaptor for the rotor and if it would fit a top loader yoke, and if so i sure could use 4 of them
any specs on the caliper mounts

[HydroDynamic]

I like this thing.

[the glassman]

updates

[SPEEDCRAVIN]

You have some good ideas and good craftmanship... Subscribed

JOSH

[TOY 2]

looks good I'll have to come out and see this in person.


TTC 08 or 09???????????

[mustange70]

Man you are now going to have 2 of the coolest play toys i know of, wow.

The way of building the frame/chassis is wicked and i may have to "take" some ideas from this (as well as you 49 build, as i happen to have a 49 sitting back home on the farm . . . . dammit i'm gonna be broke till i retire lol).

[skipped_Link]

Originally Posted by the glassman

any way we can get some specs on this set up.
Mainly the adaptor for the rotor and if it would fit a top loader yoke, and if so i sure could use 4 of them
any specs on the caliper mounts

I'm not sure what the rotors are for, they were an ebay deal,I'm sure some thing similar could be built for a top loader,
& as for the caliper mounts, they are stock gm 1/2 to mounts, cut appart & welded to my flange to bolt to the pinion retainer,

Originally Posted by TOY 2

TTC 08 or 09???????????

I'm just hoping to have it done by christams right now,

Are you sure you can make it all the way out here??

[JeepJerrySeinfeld]

very nice, can't wait to see more.

[skipped_Link]

Ok, time for some update pics,

Here is what will be the base line for the floor, notice it is about 2" below the upper frame tube,




Seat mounts are done, (yes I'm using these seats, maybe not the most comfortable, but very tough)


Bending up the B-pillar,


B-pillars that is,




A-pillars bent up & tacked in place,

[SlowmoSU]

Originally Posted by skipped_Link

I'm just hoping to have it done by christams right now

what kinda speed pills you poppin to get it done by christmas... do you have a normal job ?

[FrankenToy]

Originally Posted by skipped_Link

Bending up the B-pillar,

That's the exact same method I use to get multiple bends on the same plane with my M3. I would really like to say, "Great minds think alike!", but in my case this is just a coincidence...

[skipped_Link]

more pics

Actual seat mounts,



Upper windshield bar & roof bars



Thats pretty much it for now, I'll be racing this weekend, so it will be a few days before there is anything new to post,

[skipped_Link]

Originally Posted by SlowmoSU

what kinda speed pills you poppin to get it done by christmas... do you have a normal job ?

No pills, & I do have a job, but we work 12 hr shifts, so I never have to work more than 5 in a row & never get less than 4 off, so I have plenty of time at home, the reason I am so optomistic about christmas is almost all of the expensive parts are paid for & here ready to put on.

Originally Posted by FrankenToy

That's the exact same method I use to get multiple bends on the same plane with my M3.

Sure works good,

I've been trying to stay away from "multi plane" bends, I really want to see how nice "looking" a machine I can build using all single plane peaces,