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Old 03-17-2008, 06:58 AM   #1
Sir Flipsalot
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PROJECT - "Truck No More"

Well, I thought I would start a build-up thread to hopefully motivate me to get my truck build before Spring Fever (a local event), So here it it....

What I am working with:

Two years ago, this is what my truck looked like when it rolled out of my garage:



Build Thread is here:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=402170

Basically, after two years of wheeling it the body is DONE...

Here is what it looks like now:



Specs:

7M-GE engine swap, W56 Tranny, Dual Cases with stock gears.
Custom Rear 4-link with e-locker
All-pro 4" Front SAS
FROR T-Case Mount
30 Spline LongFeilds
36" Sx's on RockStomper Beadlocks
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Old 03-17-2008, 06:59 AM   #2
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So here is the plan:

I am going to tube the front using the original Scorpion and F-Toy as my inspiration:




Something Like this:



Everything in Dark Grey will be new, built from the existing flat bed forward.

Here are some parts I have bought already:

PRP Competition Hi-Back Suspension Seats:


Optima Yellow-Top:
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Old 03-17-2008, 07:00 AM   #3
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I spent 2 1/2 hours this Sunday tearing down the front:




Plans are for the rest of this month is to do some needed maintenance to the motor, such as Head Gasket and Valve Seals, then start bending tube in April.
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Old 03-17-2008, 10:55 AM   #4
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Just ordered the Head-Gasket from Toyota - part# 11115-42021

They wanted over $7.00 EACH for the valve seals, and since there are 24 of them that is $170.00 for some rubber o-rings LOL.

As usual, NAPA came through for me and got me Altrom ones for under $2.00 Each.
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Old 03-17-2008, 11:01 AM   #5
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this is going to be a cool build
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Old 03-17-2008, 11:14 AM   #6
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That body was MINT!
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Old 03-17-2008, 11:18 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockToy94 View Post
That body was MINT!
It might have looked that way but it was actually far from it.. Cab Corners, Rockers and Floor have all given way to rust, adding to my decision to go tube The whole floor/rocker/cab mount area, drivers side front, has collapsed about 3".

It is amazing how new fenders and some DIY sheet metal work can make it look decent...
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Old 03-17-2008, 12:38 PM   #8
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Yup, I get to see A Lot of rust in Vermont. It sucks and it makes me wish I lived down south out of the snow belt. It's just hard to find a solid rig here
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Old 03-24-2008, 08:14 AM   #9
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Here is the head gasket:



Click here for FULL SIZE:

http://www.webercomputing.net/galler...serialNumber=1

All six cylinders where blown.
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Old 03-24-2008, 09:16 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4RnrRick View Post
............. Good luck with that.

Signed - Former 7M-GE owner.
LOL, Hater!!

Actually, the head and Block cleaned up quite nicely.. Best I have ever seen on a 7M and I have seen a lot LOL

The head is already back on the truck, I just need to hook up all the rest now...
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Old 04-05-2008, 01:44 PM   #11
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Got some work done today:




Parts Pile!!!



This is why the body is going in the garbage:



Tomorrow I will start cutting stuff off the frame...
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Old 04-07-2008, 01:05 PM   #12
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Drilling and Tapping the box for Hydro Assist:



I don't have a 1/4 Pipe Tap so I will have to finish it up tomorrow...

Got these fittings at a local metal/hydrolic shop:



They are 1/4 Pipe to #6 JIC for $2.75 each (Cheaper than TG LOL)

I really wanted to go Full Hydro, but I do not have the $1600.00 to do it right, right now so it will have to wait till I do the front 3-link, next winter.

For IFS Box Tapping instructions go here:

http://www.wildyoats.com/hydraulic_assist_tech.htm
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Old 04-07-2008, 01:41 PM   #13
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lookin tits dude
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Old 04-07-2008, 06:56 PM   #14
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Front body mounts cut off and crossmember cleaned up.

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Old 04-07-2008, 07:14 PM   #15
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Can't wait to see the finished product. Are you keeping the firewall? If you are, you will be welding the cage to it at some point no?

Would you say that the 7m improved your fuel mileage or pretty much the same?

Always loved the Scorpion myself... its like hmmwv on roids.
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Old 04-07-2008, 08:48 PM   #16
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Lookin good! Can't wait to see the transition between the factory floorboard and your new one.........I still haven't figured mine out and I'm looking for ideas. Good luck.
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Old 04-08-2008, 06:54 AM   #17
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Quote:
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Can't wait to see the finished product. Are you keeping the firewall? If you are, you will be welding the cage to it at some point no?
Yup, keeping the firewall, I was going to start by bolting some angle iron to where the stock door hinge's bolt as an attachment point, then the floor and the dash bar should support the rest.

Quote:
Originally Posted by playsindirt View Post
Would you say that the 7m improved your fuel mileage or pretty much the same?
I never drove it enough on the road to compare, and never off-roaded a 22re the same way either so can't really say, but the 7M was pretty sweet gas wise. I could drive 1 1/2 hours to the trail, wheel all weekend, and drive back on 1/2 tank of gas...
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Old 04-08-2008, 06:57 AM   #18
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Lookin good! Can't wait to see the transition between the factory floorboard and your new one.........I still haven't figured mine out and I'm looking for ideas. Good luck.
I was thinking of cutting out the floor, bringing the new floor as far forward as possible and then attaching the two together with steel mesh so I can see through to the tires..
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Old 04-08-2008, 01:05 PM   #19
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Quote:
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I was thinking of cutting out the floor, bringing the new floor as far forward as possible and then attaching the two together with steel mesh so I can see through to the tires..
I thought about going that route but I really don't want any extra heat(from the exhaust) comming into the cab. I am interested to see how it turns out for you.
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Old 04-08-2008, 02:02 PM   #20
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All 6 blown I think you have a lean out issue.

Normal BHG on the 7M is 5 and 6 where the head runs the hotest and the head blots loose torque.

Does the EGR work? where is the O2? Might need to move it loser to the engine or go to a heated. You running the 22R fuel pump or the higher volume 7M pump?
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Old 04-08-2008, 02:05 PM   #21
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All 6 blown I think you have a lean out issue.

Normal BHG on the 7M is 5 and 6 where the head runs the hotest and the head blots loose torque.

Does the EGR work? where is the O2? Might need to move it loser to the engine or go to a heated. You running the 22R fuel pump or the higher volume 7M pump?
EGR disabled, O2 in stock location, using the 7M Fuel pump...

I think it was a combination of 250,000kms and overheating it a couple times before I had the fan shroud figured out....
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Old 04-09-2008, 12:51 PM   #22
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IFS Box finally tapped and put back together. I also made a plate to gusset the inside of the frame.
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Old 04-09-2008, 01:41 PM   #23
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Got a question--since you are taking the rig this far--why are you still going to use a steering box vs. going full hydro? Since your not going to be on the road with it.
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Old 04-09-2008, 02:37 PM   #24
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Quote:
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Got a question--since you are taking the rig this far--why are you still going to use a steering box vs. going full hydro? Since your not going to be on the road with it.
It is a cash flow problem I don't have the $1600.00 to go full hydro right now, so I will do it when I 3-link the front next winter... I am pretty sure I will have no problem flipping the assist and the tapped box to re-coupe my costs and I did not want to live with stock steering another minute!

Box re-mounted:



Can't see much cause of the shiny black paint reflecting the flash LOL
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Old 04-09-2008, 05:52 PM   #25
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Just did some measuring and I figure I need about 120 feet of tube. At 1.769 lbs/foot for 1.5" 120 wall, that comes to 212 lbs. I don't think that it too bad, but does not include the sheet metal weight I will need to add as well.
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