Project: Scary Canary (Low Rider TJ)

[BlueTorch]

We have very busy with the move to Birmingham, AL. We have the shop back up and running. Here is a project that Jey (the kid) and I are working on. It is a Jeep TJ.

We are linking the front and rear. The front is getting 14 inch SAWs while the rear should be getting 16 inch SAWs depending on clearance. We are working within the customers budget to keep the Jeep very low and keep cost down. This one will not be as low as the Viper Jeep but should be close.

We also built a custom cage that will recieve some custom PRP seats.

We back halved the frame with our back half kit. Be sure to check it out over on our website.

This build is just getting started. I will post up more pics in our gallery and link a few to this thread. Let me know if you have any questions.

BTW... I have a couple things involved in this project that I will be writing up a little tech for you all.

-Dan


HERE IS LINK TO THIS PROJECT ON OUR GALLERY:
http://www.bluetorchfab.com/gallery2...g2_itemId=1722

[BlueTorch]

I guess I should point out that we are shooting for a 108" WB on this project. The axles are 64" wms with one inch spacers installed by the customer. The tires are 41" Iroks.

[BlueTorch]

The front upper link mounts need to be very close to the frame. When doing so there is no room to get a nut on the bolt. I have been upper link mounts like this for years and have tried to explain to people how it all works. I will be posting more pics, but this is where you start.

On the left I have a tube insert machined down because I want to keep the upper mount very close to the frame. You can use a standard tube adapter like the one on the right. BTW... this is a 3/4-16 insert.



I will try and get the rest of the pics and text posted up later today. It should be interesting for those looking for a very simple upper link mount.

-Dan

[Chrisbuilt]

Trying different stuff compared to the green TJ that was in CRAWL? What are the specs on the rest of the guts?

[chris demartini]

Looks cool so far.

That shop is huge! I've worked in dealerships that were half that size!

[MUCHADO]

Lookin' good Dan!

[BlueTorch]

Originally Posted by Chrisbuilt

Trying different stuff compared to the Green TJ that was in CRAWL?

Yes it is differnt. We are doing a few things on this one to make it a little more budget friendly. It will not be as involved as the one you are refering to. The link mounts are different on this rig. I will post up some pics very soon. Be sure to check back. We have some custom one off parts on this project that may end up in production very soon.

-Dan

[BlueTorch]

Originally Posted by chris demartini

Looks cool so far.

That shop is huge! I've worked in dealerships that were half that size!

my feet hurt when I get home at night.... LOL

we have 33,000 sq ft under roof. We are filling it up though. Lots of room for inventory now.

You should come check it out. We are getting ready to announce the date for our Open House Party. Gonna be good times...

[Joel77]

Are you gonna high line the fender flares or use a hi-hood?

[BlueTorch]

Originally Posted by Joel77

Are you gonna high line the fender flares or use a hi-hood?

No, the customer wants to keep his fenders that are currently on the Jeep. The Jeep had a one inch body lift on it when the customer dropped it off. We decided to leave it on to help clear the tires at a lower ride. We should be around 21 inches at the belly at ride.

-Dan

[Joel77]

Would it be possible with your (BTF) flat fenders to raise them up a few inches (can they be bolted in)?
Kind of like this.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2663...36793590OluFWd


Thanks

[offroadman83]

Following this build for sure!! Love seeing BTF Jeep builds. Wish i had the money to take mine and get it pimped!!---------Kyle

[Booger Weldz]

so what are your ideas/build steps in keeping the rig so low?

ive got mine set with about 4'' or so of uptravel on 16'' coilovers rear...i gotta set the axle practically on the bumpstops to be safe(bottoming out the coilover and ruining the guts)...in the front ive got 14''ers with a bit more up travel, maybe 5'', but still gotta sit just a bit off the bumpstops to be safe in a big hit on the trail...

ive always had little uptravel(flat front leaf springs and flat rear 1/4 eliptical leafs), but now its limited further with panhard bars, frame rails, oil pans, hydro rams and drag links all wanted to get friendly with eachother...


i dont mean to clog up yur build thread, but im sure we are all interested in keeping C of G and our rigs as low as possible, without giving up suspension performance...

thanks dan

[BlueTorch]

Originally Posted by Booger Weldz

so what are your ideas/build steps in keeping the rig so low?

ive got mine set with about 4'' or so of uptravel on 16'' coilovers rear...i gotta set the axle practically on the bumpstops to be safe(bottoming out the coilover and ruining the guts)...in the front ive got 14''ers with a bit more up travel, maybe 5'', but still gotta sit just a bit off the bumpstops to be safe in a big hit on the trail...

ive always had little uptravel(flat front leaf springs and flat rear 1/4 eliptical leafs), but now its limited further with panhard bars, frame rails, oil pans, hydro rams and drag links all wanted to get friendly with eachother...


i dont mean to clog up yur build thread, but im sure we are all interested in keeping C of G and our rigs as low as possible, without giving up suspension performance...

thanks dan

Like the Viper Jeep we should have around 6 inches of up before it hits the bumps. When building a rig for a low cg you have to chang a number of things. The rear upper links on this rig will have cut outs in the rear floor to clear at full stuff. The front is a bit more tricky. On the Viper Jeep we cut the front frame rails off and angled them up to clear the steering. We also had a custom Ron Davis Radiator built to offer more clearance for the steerinf ram. With this Jeep the upper drivers side link mount will clear the radiator's bottom hose. In order to go much lower we would have to have a radiator made to get more room. The customer on this rig wants to keep the cost down so I doubt we will be going that low.

Other things to consider. I would set up the shocks with the amount of up travel you want before anything hits. That way you get the full up travel. Riding on the bumps will not work on East Coast rigs. You have to have up travel to carry speed. Not much crawling to it when the rocks have mud on them.

In some cases you may have to build custom headers to clear the front links. On this vehicle we should be fine.

Long story short it pays to plan a lot before you start building. Once you have the axle sitting under the Jeep you have to pay close attention to everything that needs to me moved. If you need to notch a frame rail and brace it for a panhard bar to pass then go for it. Same goes for steering linkage. On the Viper Jeep we had notches in the front frame rails for the tie rod to clear at full stuff. Keep in mind we notched a frame that was already moved up... so it was way up in the suspension cycle.

-Dan

[BlueTorch]

Originally Posted by Joel77

Would it be possible with your (BTF) flat fenders to raise them up a few inches (can they be bolted in)?
Kind of like this.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2663...36793590OluFWd


Thanks

That is something I have considered making as a production part. I guess I need to hurry up and do it. I have had a couple customers mod our DIY fender kit to do exactly what you want.

-Dan

[Booger Weldz]

Originally Posted by BlueTorch

Like the Viper Jeep we should have around 6 inches of up before it hits the bumps. When building a rig for a low cg you have to chang a number of things. The rear upper links on this rig will have cut outs in the rear floor to clear at full stuff. The front is a bit more tricky. On the Viper Jeep we cut the front frame rails off and angled them up to clear the steering. We also had a custom Ron Davis Radiator built to offer more clearance for the steerinf ram. With this Jeep the upper drivers side link mount will clear the radiator's bottom hose. In order to go much lower we would have to have a radiator made to get more room. The customer on this rig wants to keep the cost down so I doubt we will be going that low.

Other things to consider. I would set up the shocks with the amount of up travel you want before anything hits. That way you get the full up travel. Riding on the bumps will not work on East Coast rigs. You have to have up travel to carry speed. Not much crawling to it when the rocks have mud on them.

In some cases you may have to build custom headers to clear the front links. On this vehicle we should be fine.

Long story short it pays to plan a lot before you start building. Once you have the axle sitting under the Jeep you have to pay close attention to everything that needs to me moved. If you need to notch a frame rail and brace it for a panhard bar to pass then go for it. Same goes for steering linkage. On the Viper Jeep we had notches in the front frame rails for the tie rod to clear at full stuff. Keep in mind we notched a frame that was already moved up... so it was way up in the suspension cycle.

-Dan

thanks for the responce! i can appreciate your efforts in the build...im working off a factory frame and motor placement(toyota tacoma) so frame rails and oil pans are things i cant necessarily change and have to work around(comprimise suspension design and geometry)...its hard, ive cut off and redid quite a few things that didnt clear other things as i thought(particulatly the upper link mount at the axle, is a very tight fit between the frame rail, motor mount and oil pan, especially when articulating)...im sure once i get off the jackstands there will be even more adjustments/trimming/ re designing for clearance issues...

anyway, nice work and thanks for posting so we can all learn and get ideas from your fabrication...

[BlueTorch]

Originally Posted by Booger Weldz

thanks for the responce! i can appreciate your efforts in the build...im working off a factory frame and motor placement(toyota tacoma) so frame rails and oil pans are things i cant necessarily change and have to work around(comprimise suspension design and geometry)...its hard, ive cut off and redid quite a few things that didnt clear other things as i thought(particulatly the upper link mount at the axle, is a very tight fit between the frame rail, motor mount and oil pan, especially when articulating)...im sure once i get off the jackstands there will be even more adjustments/trimming/ re designing for clearance issues...

anyway, nice work and thanks for posting so we can all learn and get ideas from your fabrication...

No worries... if you see something and have a question fire away. I am all about helping out.

Do you have pics of what you are building? I will take a look at it for you, if you want.

-Dan

[1972CJ5+1]

Originally Posted by BlueTorch

No worries... if you see something and have a question fire away. I am all about helping out.

Do you have pics of what you are building? I will take a look at it for you, if you want.

-Dan

this is booger weldz on another account(my red star expired)...i think i have it all sorted, but theyre some pretty crazy bends here and there on the drag link and panhard to clear stuff...

[1972CJ5+1]

also, i know you use pooint A and B when trying to keep the drag link and panhard paralell, but im assuming you use the mounting point for A and B, not necessarily the centerline of the heim, since my drag link heims are bolted to the top of the high steer arm, the bottom of the pitman???? if that the case if got things pretty close, if im wrong and iu should be using centerline of the heim joint itself...well its off quite a bit(hope this makes sense)

[BlueTorch]

Originally Posted by 1972CJ5+1

also, i know you use pooint A and B when trying to keep the drag link and panhard paralell, but im assuming you use the mounting point for A and B, not necessarily the centerline of the heim, since my drag link heims are bolted to the top of the high steer arm, the bottom of the pitman???? if that the case if got things pretty close, if im wrong and iu should be using centerline of the heim joint itself...well its off quite a bit(hope this makes sense)

If I am reading that correctly you would use the CL at the pivot point from point A to point B.

Why do you have the bend in the drag link? I cant see anything that it has to clear. I may be wrong. Hopefully I answered your question. If not let me know and I will read it again.

-Dan

[Booger Weldz]

Originally Posted by BlueTorch

If I am reading that correctly you would use the CL at the pivot point from point A to point B.

Why do you have the bend in the drag link? I cant see anything that it has to clear. I may be wrong. Hopefully I answered your question. If not let me know and I will read it again.

-Dan

cool with point A and B then...thanks!

the bend in the drag link is to decrease the angle the heim sits at so im not wasting potential passenger wheel droop when the heim previously bound up on articulation(ran out of misalignment)...with the bend the heim actually sits at an angle a bit past horizontal at ride height since i have a lot less uptravel...

[BlueTorch]

Originally Posted by Booger Weldz

cool with point A and B then...thanks!

the bend in the drag link is to decrease the angle the heim sits at so im not wasting potential passenger wheel droop when the heim previously bound up on articulation(ran out of misalignment)...with the bend the heim actually sits at an angle a bit past horizontal at ride height since i have a lot less uptravel...

Thats cool. I was just wondering. I will be posting more pics of the front suspension and a couple things we have had to work around to make things clear.

BTW... going full hydro makes getting it low a bit easier.

-Dan

[BlueTorch]

A little update. We have both the front and rear 4 links mocked up. We chopped the front frame section off Friday are in the process of fabricating the new section. After which we will be mocking up the front shock towers. I will get some more pics to you all on Monday.

-Dan

[BlueTorch]

some more pics for you all

[Tin Bender]

SSSSHHHHAAAAWWWWWINNNNNGGGGGGGG