And then suddenly there it is!

View from the back. Note engraving showing that it's a right-hand drop 4-speed Atlas.

This is a layout of all the parts for the twin-stick cable shifters (for shifting the main case) plus the lubricant-level sight tube and the studs and nuts to mount the case to the transmission adapter.

All the parts here, along with the supplied lubricant, Torco MTF, form the kit: part no. 303009. This kit is sold with the Atlas-4SP (included in the price) if you specify "cable shift" as an option.

The parts key is below:

This shows all the parts of the cable-shift mechanism for the planetary reduction box.

This kit, for right-hand drop cases, is sold as part no. 344020R. It is sold separately from the Atlas-4SP, presumably because a differently priced electronic-shift kit is optionally available.

Parts key below.

Close-up of part no. 52-9700, the 10-spline internal x 23-spline external spud shaft that connects the SM465's 10-spline output to the 23-spline input of the Atlas-4SP.

It is a "floating" design, mounting between transmission and transfer case within the transmission to Atlas adapter casting.

The next four pics show the transmission-to-Atlas adapter, part number 51-9808.

It is cast aluminum, machine finished, and measures 5.25" long.

In this pic the the transmission would mount on the right, and the Atlas transfer case on the left.

The adapter includes a machined-flat bottom for mounting along with a threaded hole (red arrow) that can be used for a "torque control arm" (more on this later).

As you can see in this picture, the adapter's flat bottom has four pre-drilled and threaded holes - doubtless useful for mounting in stock vehicles for which the part was originally designed - i.e. for when it is used to swap an SM465 into a Jeep.

The holes are 3/8"-NC16. One pair are approximately 4.25" apart and the other 4-7/16" apart.

I ended up not using either and fabricated a different mount system as we shall see a little later.

This next series of four pics shows a comparison between the new Atlas-4SP and my old NP203/Dana 20 doubler.

The new Atlas-4SP is about 4" shorter, 70 lbs lighter, and provides a lowest gear ratio of 10.34:1 vice 4:1 for the doubler.

With the old stock Chevy adapter removed, the back of the SM465 looks like this.

Make sure to give the mounting surface a good cleaning.

The 10 x 23 spud shaft just slips on the SM465 output shaft.

The instructions from AA don't mention it, but I smeared a good coating of lubricant inside the female splines before slipping the spud shaft in place. I used good old Permatex anti-seize - the gray"high temp" grease. I just feel that any dry metal-to-metal contact should be avoided if possible and there isn't a good technical reason to exclude lubricant.

The adapter is held in place with seven of the twelve 3/8"-NC16 x 1-1/2" hex head cap screws (bolts) (pn 723723) and the 3/8"-NC16 x 2" stud (pn 723711) with the 3/8"-NC16 hex nut (pn 723701).

Eight 3/8" lock washers are also used (pn 723704)

This pic illustrates why the stud is used. Due to the shape of the adapter, the top-most hole (the one at "12 'o'clock" doesn't have sufficient clearance for a bolt to be inserted.

Instead, the stud is inserted into the top-most hole first, before the adapter is fitted in place. I used some blue Loctite thread-locker on the stud before installation, as well as on all the bolt threads.

Before fitting the adapter in place I also "glued" the gasket to the transmission using Permatex spray-a-gasket sealant.

Fit the adapter in place and secure with the remaining 7 bolts and lock-washers. Use blue Loctite on the bolt threads and tighten to approx. 30 ft/lbs.

Don't forget to install the nut on the stud, use a little Loctite on the threads, and also tighten it to 30 ft/lbs.

This picture illustrates why the spacer adapter is required between the adapter and the Atlas.

You can see that the tip of the spud shaft protrudes just a fraction beyond the mounting face of the adapter. The Atlas-4SP CAN NOT accept any kind of positive "stick-out" like this. Installing the Atlas-4SP to any output shaft with positive stick-out will cause the shaft to bottom out in the Atlas input and damage the transfer case.

Many other transmissions and/or adapters also have positive stick-out and, in most cases, any required spacer adapter can be obtained free from AA when the Atlas is purchased.

The first task is to install the oil-level sight tube.

The tube itself comes crimped onto two 90° AN-6 JIC swivel fittings, and there are two 1/4" NPT to AN-6 male adapter fittings. On these fittings, the tapered threads (to the right in this picture) are the NPT threads that thread into the case.

It fits in place behind the rear-cover of the front output shaft.

The swivel fittings of the sight tube are then tightened in place on the adapters. No teflon tape nor pipe sealant is required nor should it be used on these JIC fittings.

Because the next task is to fill the case with oil, and you do that through the upper sight tube fitting, you actually want to attach just the lower fitting first, despite what this picture shows. Remember what I said about cocking up anything and everything possible along the way? I swear, it's a God-given talent of mine!

The recommended lubricant is the supplied Torco MTF. However, AA also recommend initially using one of the alternate engine-oil lubricants for the first 500-mile break-in of the transfer case.

I chose Castrol Syntec SAE 5W-50, but you can also use Valvoline Synthetic 20w-50 or Mobil 1 Synthetic 15w-50.

I will probably continue to run the Castrol Syntec even after break-in as the Torco MTF isn't available locally whereas the Castrol is available everywhere. Also, if I ever suffered a partial lubricant loss, especially somewhere where the Torco MTF isn't available, I'd rather not have to drain and flush the case before topping up (mixing different lubricants isn't a good idea). If I stick with the Castrol I'll be safe.

Because you need to tip the case onto its front after filling (or fill it while it's on its front) the first thing you need to do is install the twin-stick base mount because the mounting holes pass through into the case and if the bolts aren't installed oil can leak out of them. This would be a particular nuisance because we're adding a specific volume of oil in order to establish the right level on the sight tube. If you were to begin filling the case with the carefully measured 2.36 liters of fluid only to find some has leaked out during the process you pretty much have to drain the case, re-measure 2.36 liters and start again. Imagine how I know this!

The twin-stick base mount (pn 302051) along with its three 3/8"-NC16 x 1" socket head cap screws (pn 723731) are shown in the foreground of this picture.

Stand the case on its front so the rear output shaft points straight up as shown in the pic and block it in place.

In order to fill it I disconnected the upper end of the sight tube and installed a short length of rubber tube connected to a funnel with a small-diameter neck over the fitting in the case. Add the correct volume of oil.

At the other extreme, if you were to install the case clocked perfectly flat you can see that the oil level barely shows in the sight tube.

When the case is installed in the vehicle a permanent marker or small zip-tie will be used to mark the "full" level on the sight tube.

Slide the extension tube (pn 303308) and extension tube bracket (pn 303307) over the all-thread and tighten in place with the 1/2"-NC13 serrated locknut (pn 303120).

Make sure the tube butts completely up to the case and hold the extension tube bracket level when you tighten the locknut.

Remove the red plastic end-cap and one jam nut from the end of the shift cable (pn 303309) - it doesn't matter which end, they are the same.

Thread the remaining jam nut towards the long end of the cable, just past half-way on the threads...

... so that when you install the cable in the bracket it's approximately in the middle of its range.

Insert the cable through the hole in the extension tube bracket, then slide the other jam nut back over the cable.

Sandwich the bracket between the two jam nuts by tightening them against one another.

At the other end of the cables (the shifter ends), remove the red plastic end-cap, one jam nut, and the lock washer and discard.

Thread the remaining jam nuts to about halfway along the threads.

Slide the Heim joints over the ends of the shifter handles and insert the cotter pins (pn 920026).

Do not bend out the legs of the cotter pins yet - you will have to disassemble the shifter handles to install in the vehicle.

... and then the shift knobs.

Looking at the shifter body from the end where the cables enter, the left stick shifts the front axle and the right stick shifts the rear axle.

Before beginning the shift test and cable adjustment procedure, it's a good idea to back off the shift-rail detent set-screws a quarter turn. They are the large brass set-screws located on the underside of the back of the shift-rail housing - illustrated here by the red arrows. This will allow for easier initial shifting.

As the Atlas is operated and breaks-in, the shift detent components will seat and the set-screws can be re-tightened to their original position.

This is the "high-range" position.

In this position the shift rail is retracted into the case, and there is virtually no gap between the shift rail adapter and the base mount.

This correlates to a shifter-handle position of "towards the cables"

Assuming the shift cables run in a straight line to the shifter body, this would correlate to the shift lever in the "back" or "aft" position.

This is the "neutral" position.

In this position the shift rail is extended mid-way out of the case, and there is a gap between the shift rail adapter and the base mount. About half an inch of shiny shift rail is visible between the shift rail adapter and the base mount.

This correlates to a shifter-handle position of "in the middle of the throw"

Assuming the shift cables run in a straight line to the shifter body, this would correlate to the shift lever in the "middle" position.

This is the "low-range" position.

In this position the shift rail is extended all the way out of the case, and there is a bigger gap between the shift rail adapter and the base mount. About an inch of shiny shift rail is visible between the shift rail adapter and the base mount.

This correlates to a shifter-handle position of "away from the cables"

Assuming the shift cables run in a straight line to the shifter body, this would correlate to the shift lever in the "front" or "forward" position.

Now that we know what the shift positions are, we can set up the case and shifters on the bench to test and adjust the shifts.

I set the case on the bench, stretched the cables out straight away from the case and clamped the shifter body in a vice so I could operate the shifters.

First loosen the button-head cap screws holding the barrel retainer plate to the shifter body.

It is not necessary to remove them - just loosen them enough to allow the cable barrels to rotate in the barrel retainer plate.

To move the sheath towards the case:

- Back the nut off and thread it further onto the cable
- Thread the barrel further onto the cable until it bottoms on the nut
- Push the shifter body back up against the cable barrels and re-tighten the cap screws

To move the sheath towards the shifters :

- Back the jam nut off
- Thread the barrel away from the cable
- Tighten the jam nut up against the barrel
- Push the shifter body back up against the cable barrels and re-tighten the cap screws

With the shifters in "High", and the levers to the rear, there is plenty of clearance between the Heim joints and the shifter body, illustrated by the red arrows.

Obviously, you want to have both cables, front and rear axles, adjusted approximately the same so the two levers are not way out of synch.

While I was adjusting the cables, I decided to test the minimum bend radius of the shift cables.

That is - I wanted to see how tightly they could be bent and still deliver a nice, smooth, positive shift.

I was pretty amazed at the results.

As long as you don't actually kink the cables you can achieve some pretty tight bend radii and the shift is still smooth and positive.

I was really quite impressed with the results.

The last thing to do before test-fitting the case into the vehicle is to assemble and adjust/test the shifter for the reduction box.

Begin by tapping the bushings (pn 340612) into the shifter handle (pn 340611) using a mallet.

The next step is to connect the other end of the cable to the Atlas.

This pic shows the placement and orientation of the cable shifter bracket (pn 340517-R).

Remove the red plastic dust plugs from the three holes on the top of the case and prepare the three 3/8"-NC16 x 3/4" bracket mounting bolts (pn 723720) and flat washers (pn 720015).

Place a dab of blue RTV on the threads of the bracket mounting bolts to seal them as they pass through into the case.

One of the very few problems I had during the project was the fact that the holes in the bracket didn't quite line up with the holes in the case, preventing all three bolts from being able to be installed.

To remedy this I drilled out the misaligned hole in the bracket until I could insert and tighten all three bolts.

Remove red plastic dust cap, the first jam nut, and the star washer from the free end of the cable.

Thread the remaining jam nut about halfway along the cable's threads then thread the cable into the bracket by turning the whole shifter/cable assembly...

Thread the 1/4"-NF28 female Heim joint (pn 303313) completely onto the shift rod until it bottoms out.

Align the Heim joint so that the bore in the spherical bearing is centered in the race and vertical, then hold the Heim joint in place with a wrench and tighten the jam nut.

Hold the shifter housing upright and move the stick through its full range of motion.

Check that there is no interference between the stick and the housing where the stick passes through the oval slot (red arrows) and ...

... that there is no interference between the ball joint and the inside of the shifter housing.

If there is any interference, loosen the button head cap screws and the large jam nut on the cable. Rotate the barrel independently to adjust the shift handle / ball joint position. Recheck for interference and continue adjusting the barrel as necessary. Once you are satisfied with the adjustment, securely re-tighten the jam nut and button head cap screws.

Recall that when the shifter is aft (back towards the cable) this is the Low Range position and when it is fwd (away from the cable) it is in the High Range position.

In this pic the shifter is in Low Range position.

The pivot lever on the case, just behind the planetary reduction box, moves fore and aft to mechanically shift the reduction box.

When it is aft (towards the back of the transfer case) the reduction box is in Low Range - as in this pic.

Move the shifter and the pivot lever to the High Range position. Check that bore in the Heim joint is forward of the tapped hole in the pivot lever.

In this picture you can see that it is not, and so further adjustment is required.

Adjust the cable so that the bore in the Heim joint is forward of the tapped hole in the pivot lever by threading the cable/shifter assembly into or out of the cable shifter bracket, as before.

Move the shifter and the pivot lever back to the Low Range position and double-check that, in Low Range, the Heim joint is still behind the tapped hole in the pivot lever.

In this case it is, so adjustment is complete.

If it is not, you will have to continue to fine tune the adjustment by threading the cable/shifter assembly into or out of the cable shifter bracket until the pivot lever travel is centered within the cable travel.

The front of the Atlas-4SP's reduction box is equipped with four different spacings of the 6-bolt round pattern. This alone would offer you four different clocking angles, however many Advance Adapters' adapters will also have more than one bolt pattern, meaning that eight clocking options are often available.

Typical clocking options might be:

Left drop case: 7, 14, 17, 21, 24, 28, 31, or 38 degrees.

Right drop case: 4, 11, 14, 18, 21, 25, 28, or 35 degrees.