Hey all you guys that are running the 5.3l chevy motors in your Jeeps, what trans and case are you all running?
And that's a problem............:homer:Only complaints I've heard from either of them is that they can't seem to stay out of the skinny pedal...
I've got triangulated uppers on mine. I thought clearance to the pan was gonna be tight but the closest to interference is actually to the crank pulley at full bump. I clear the pan just fine. It's a Scrambler with a custom frame but the same rules apply.Has anyone triangulated there upper links with a 5.3 with stock truck oil pan. I will be moving to the front suspension within a week or 2 and only think i can do it if i curve the upper links to wrap around the pan.
Currently it is setup with a wishboned upper link.
I plan on running 2" 1/4 wall DOM, i figure it should hold up if i need to bend the link.
It won't matter if it's being set up with the car or truck pan for the uppers. The clearance will be an issue due to width at the front of the pan, not the depth in the back. If it were triangulated lowers it'd be a different story.dud, i would wait to link the front until i had a new oil pan. thoughs truck oil pans hang down so low, and they will bust if you hit it on a rock, you know, cast aluminum. You can even look around and get an LS oil pan and pick-up off of an F body. you would gan alot of clearance and the cost is not terrible.
Other than that, you could always run straight upper link and triangulate to lower links off of a crossmember.
I picked up a high mileage 5.3 that I was gonna rebuild, bore out to 5.7 with stock LS1 pistons, stock 5.3 heads(smaller chamber than LS1 heads ups the compression but they don't flow quite as well as some of the other heads), cam, valve springs, tune, etc. I'll now be running an LQ4 6.0 with a TSP 224 cam with .581 lift, upgraded valve springs, custom tune, good exhaust, 36lb injectors, etc. Should be good for 400-420hp at the crank. The cam is a bit much for a crawler but I'll see lots of dune and street time too so it should be a good tradeoff. It's not like a 6.0 isn't gonna have enough lowend power to begin with....Are any of you building up these 5.3's, or just leaving them stock with an exhaust and tune? I know LS1s make more power, but anything with "LS" goes for big money and these truck motors are a dime a dozen.
You could get there with a 5.3 with the same mods, the power just won't be in the ideal spot in the RPM range for crawling. My buddy has a 5.3 Sierra with a TR220 cam, valve springs, injectors, aggressive tune, milled heads, etc. and it puts down awesome power. I think it's right in the 400hp range. With a 3k RPM stall and built trans it's quick as hell, especially for a 4800lb truck. For a crawler to make around 400hp with a 5.3 I'd probably run a cam in the 214/216 range, Comp 918 valvesprings, truck intake, upgraded injectors, ported heads, nice headers to a free flowing exhaust, and a good tune. A good port job alone can get you 30hp on those heads.My buggy is probably going to come in around 3500 give or take, my current dinosuar TPI motor with cam and tune puts out about 300. I'm thinking I need around 400 at least. I know with an LS1 I can get there with just a cam, exhaust and tune but what does a 5.3 need to hit those numbers?
Honestly, I haven't gotten even close to this point on my build. This was just a diagram I picked up on the web- have corresponded with the guy via e-mail and he seems to know his stuff. Your diode comment makes sense, though.Wouldn't you want a diode in between the PCM and the resistor, can't imagine the PCM would care for that increase in potential pushing back.
You can use a pull type slave cylinder instead.Anyone found center drop headers for use with an external slave? I'm running a 5.3 w SM 465, external slave and the driver's exhaust drops RIGHT where external slave will be. AA says 4-6 weeks B/O on headers, and BMR is soon and I'm shooting for this as maiden outing. Any ideas are helpful. Thanks!!
I've got triangulated uppers on mine. I thought clearance to the pan was gonna be tight but the closest to interference is actually to the crank pulley at full bump. I clear the pan just fine. It's a Scrambler with a custom frame but the same rules apply.
That's a 5.3 with a truck pan in the pics. In the end I'll be running a 6.0 with a Camaro oilpan and accessory brackets.
It won't matter if it's being set up with the car or truck pan for the uppers. The clearance will be an issue due to width at the front of the pan, not the depth in the back. If it were triangulated lowers it'd be a different story.
I picked up a high mileage 5.3 that I was gonna rebuild, bore out to 5.7 with stock LS1 pistons, stock 5.3 heads(smaller chamber than LS1 heads ups the compression but they don't flow quite as well as some of the other heads), cam, valve springs, tune, etc. I'll now be running an LQ4 6.0 with a TSP 224 cam with .581 lift, upgraded valve springs, custom tune, good exhaust, 36lb injectors, etc. Should be good for 400-420hp at the crank. The cam is a bit much for a crawler but I'll see lots of dune and street time too so it should be a good tradeoff. It's not like a 6.0 isn't gonna have enough lowend power to begin with....
You could get there with a 5.3 with the same mods, the power just won't be in the ideal spot in the RPM range for crawling. My buddy has a 5.3 Sierra with a TR220 cam, valve springs, injectors, aggressive tune, milled heads, etc. and it puts down awesome power. I think it's right in the 400hp range. With a 3k RPM stall and built trans it's quick as hell, especially for a 4800lb truck. For a crawler to make around 400hp with a 5.3 I'd probably run a cam in the 214/216 range, Comp 918 valvesprings, truck intake, upgraded injectors, ported heads, nice headers to a free flowing exhaust, and a good tune. A good port job alone can get you 30hp on those heads.
Here is the LS1Tech.com write-up I did on my install. I used a 1K-Ohm 1/4 watt resistor (Radio Shack 271-1321)Not saying they are wrong, because I don't know, but I would think that you would want a much higher resistor there - like 5 or even 10k ohms. All you are trying to do is make the voltage high, when there isn't a low there. 680 ohms is putting quite the current load on things when there is a low present, as it's really a short then. Current = Voltage/Resistance.
Personally I'd try it with a larger resistor first; if it works, awesome, you just saved yourself a possible headache down the road. If not, go with a lower value. Even if you started with a 3.3k (orange, orange, red for those not knowing) first....
You're saying the stock truck manifolds dump right on the slave cyl? That sounds about right since they are a rear dump. I am planning the same setup only it's a 6.0/SM465. I was looking at Novak or Sanderson headers (they look identical) since they dump just a little off center.Anyone found center drop headers for use with an external slave? I'm running a 5.3 w SM 465, external slave and the driver's exhaust drops RIGHT where external slave will be. AA says 4-6 weeks B/O on headers, and BMR is soon and I'm shooting for this as maiden outing. Any ideas are helpful. Thanks!!
Going with AA headers, as they were the least expensive and I'm running out of money fast! Will probably go with Sanderson eventually as I hear the AA's are not the best, but they are fine for now, and price is great!!You're saying the stock truck manifolds dump right on the slave cyl? That sounds about right since they are a rear dump. I am planning the same setup only it's a 6.0/SM465. I was looking at Novak or Sanderson headers (they look identical) since they dump just a little off center.
Let me know what you end up going with. I wasn't aware that AA sold headers.
Crap, just noticed you have a YJ, that would explain why you can get AA headers. For TJ's they just recommend using OEM manifolds from a '99-05 GM 1500. Good luck, I'd be getting those if I knew they'd work.Going with AA headers, as they were the least expensive and I'm running out of money fast! Will probably go with Sanderson eventually as I hear the AA's are not the best, but they are fine for now, and price is great!!
X2, that's what I went with.If you are sticking with a drivers side drop front axle you could go with a chevy np241. Be sure its a driver drop before you buy it as they make both. You can get them with a 27 spline input which should bolt right up to the 4L60 (heck, you might find that entire drivetrain if you're lucky).
I believe that any of the 241's that came behind the 4L60, 700R, and TH350 would be 27 spline input. If it came behind the 4L80, TH400, or SM465 it will be 32 spline.
Nice exhaust..........that is exactly what I am planning for mine. Is that dual 2.5"s into a 3" outlet?X2, that's what I went with.
Got a picture of the exhaust as it goes under the bell housing? How low does that hang down there? I've thought of that going that way, but I'm afraid of it being too low.X2, that's what I went with.
I kept it as tight to the bell-housing as I could (it will all be heat wrapped as well), it is completely above the bottom of my frame rails, however you have to keep in mind that I elevated the trans/t-case and did some floor surgery to make that happen.Got a picture of the exhaust as it goes under the bell housing? How low does that hang down there?