Pirate 4x4 banner
Cancel
Create thread New Garage Forums

Scoutzall, the build-up.

Jump to Latest
100K views 316 replies 55 participants last post by  larboc@hotmail.com  
#1 · (Edited)
Project: Scoutzall r2.2
Subect: 1974 RHD Scout II
Drivetrain: 460-ZF-1356-np205
Axles: Dana 60/Dana 70 dually's 4Xdisks
Tires: 40"+ on H1's
Winch: Warn M12000
Suspension: Prototype D&C 4-link w/SAW coil-over front and standard coil rear kit.

Scout r2.0
Image


Scout r2.1
Image

This build will be done as quickly and thoroughly as possible to see if this new kit from D&C will take as much time and guesswork out of 4-linking as it appears it will. However I absolutely will not compromise quality for build speed, so if it takes longer so be it. Unlike my previous start at a build thread, I now have a steady, good paying job as a co-op mechanical engineer at mercury marine and a decent indoor shop setup with good tools. I should be putting the money toward the last semesters of college at MTU commencing in January, but lets just call this an "investment".
-Kansas 4x4 service
 
#5 ·
This is where things took a turn in a different direction, Snoopy offered, and I agreed to install and evaluate a prototype four link rear, radius arm front kit for Scout II's. I had been salivating over coil overs and a fully linked suspension for many different reasons up until he contacted me, and I finally decided to do it right the first time. And so begins scoutzall.

The process for ordering this 4 link kit begins with a phone call to Damien at D&C Extreme. I only needed to provide him my axle choice and desired stretch for the front and rear. He agreed to allow me to purchase the kit in stages so that I could comfortably go paycheck to paycheck.

The kit is all based off of two 44" long frame sleeves, these sleeves are designed to fit snuggly over a prepped scout frame rail. I had welded along the factory seam on my frame and this required me to grind the weld smooth. All brackets must be cut and ground smooth as well.

I then smothered the rail and sleeve inside with a bunch of paint I had lying around for rust proofing. A little clamping force from a high lift and it went right on.
Image


Because my frame was of questionable straightness, I clamped the rear first, tacked it, then did the middle 2nd and front last. I was easily able to pull the sleeve to the frame with the high lift. Make sure and only tack the bottoms when doing this at first.

Now I clamped the sides together and tacked them, glad you didn't do them before?
Image


The rest is pretty straight forward. I went along and marked the frame at 3" intervals, sort of staggered from top to bottom. I don't feel it would be necessary to weld everything, it may even be harmful.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


The frame sleeve is serious beef. 3/8" IIRC. Very heavy duty and has excellent fit and finish. I believe it to have been bent for this specific task, not some off the shelf box steel cut to fit. This is a VERY efficient way attach links and I think I may tie into it and run all the way on up to the front bumper with similarly sized angle for some extra support for my winch and motor.

Thats all I got done tonight. Gonna be a busy weekend. :smokin:
 
#6 ·
Couple things:
1) You can V-out your lower links a bit, not too much, but about 3" per side.
2) The frame sleeves are custom made from flat-stock and bent to fit the Scout frames exactly.
3) Cool writeup on the build. Can't wait to see it finished.
 
#8 ·
Rigged up an interesting way to pull lower king pin cap out of dana 60. It's one of those picture is worth a thousand words kind of things, however you can't really see the cap in the pic. It has a 3/4" nut welded to it and a bolt chained to an engine hoist. A few good hits with the partsbreaker to twist the cap as the hoist applied the tension was all it took.
Image

Other side sleeve is on. I found that the stock body mounts are not necessarily a good reference point to measure from. I instead used a little indexing hole just behind the sleeves.
Image

Image


herm, looks like lens might have a spec or two of grinding dust on it.
 
#9 ·
Productive yet mundane day. LOTS of grinding, had to make everything ready to be put on a 4" axle tube and the axle and frame got a bunch of stone work too. Removed the flange that the old drums bolted to. This was an absolute joy. Then I was finally able to weld on my disk brake brackets.
Image


Then I started figuring out rough driveline angles and lengths so I can pick a good angle to attach the lower link brackets at. I think I want them rotated up plenty to clear rocks and such even at full droop. If you have everything mocked up a laser level is much easier and more accurate than trying to set a piece of pipe someplace and see how it looks. Since my frame wasn't setting at ride height, I corrected the measurement at the tape.
Image


Mo work tomorrow.
 
#11 ·
I don't know that I am ANGRY enough to keep this kind of progress up but we'll see.

Today I got the lower link mounts finally on after arguing with self as to placement. I made up some gussets out of some 1/4" for the bottoms of the brackets for a little added strength since I pointed these up a little. Alot more grinding today too. Gonna invest in a flap wheel to start dressing up stuff a little better.
Image


Couldn't help it. Thinking about mounting the coil brackets on the inside of the frame to bring springs in a bit.
Image

Image


A little mock up.
Image

Image


This is where things are going to start getting messy. This is pretty much where the t-case is going to have to go. I would like to clock it flat but it will hit the frame rail. I think it may end up running at the OEM angle or maybe a c-hair above that. The hard part will be making a torque mount for it that will still clear the frame rail. I may have to make a torque mount that bolts to the front or rear simply to give myself some frame clearance.

A quick thought but I am afraid it would be too ridged even with poly motor mounts. Could a person drill 2 large holes in the side of the frame and insert some dom that a soft rubber YJ or CJ leaf spring bushing could go in. Then run a bolt through the bushing to the t-case? I am curious to see how others have stuffed a 205 beetween the rails. Cajun, you don't count.
 
4
#13 ·
I mounted my Ford 205 with the factory clocking. At first I wanted to clock it flat, but discovered that wasn't necessary to keep it above the bottom of the frame. Actually, since you already have those lower link brackets hanging down I'm not sure why you're worried about mounting the xfer case flat. Personally I would cut those lower brackets off and move them to the side of the frame rails. Of course you may have to do some other changes to keep your geometry correct, but the end product will be a lot nicer.
 
4
#27 ·
Those link brackets will definitely hold up, but you're taking a step backwards by not keeping the bottom of your frame smooth. Any thing that hangs down from the frame like that will catch on rocks causing the entire vehicle to pivot. I've seen it way too many times on buggies.

I think the spring bushing in the frame would be too rigid like you said. What are you using for a xfercase adapter? Is there no way to modify the adapter so you can bolt a crossmember to it?
 
#17 ·
.........annnnnnnd progress screeches to a halt, till Friday anyway. Checked account balance and I've got $9.76 plus the $3 or so in change I was able to find to get me through till the end of the week. Diesel gauge is in the yellow and not much food in the fridge. Soooooo, I'm ridin the moped to work and to the shop the rest of the week. I think the bottle of shielding gas put me over the edge. Friday is payday though!
 
#20 ·
Are the rear lower link frame and axle mounts the same width?

Having done one of these babies, keep something in mind, tack before you weld, it's less to grind when you have to reposition everything...

Looks good.
 
#23 ·
Ok, outside it is! I was kind of starting to lean toward outside mounting anyway. I want to lean on the side of mall crawler rather than off-road only buggy when in doubt.

Got some stuff done tonight. Started mocking up powertrain a little more representative of the end project and it looks like things are gonna be tight, but not too bad! The t-case will be as far back as possible without interfering with the upper rear left link mount and everything will line right up, but just barely!

If I hadn't have gone so short with my doubler it wouldn't have worked out so well.

I have decided to rotate the 205 up as much as possible, and then move it up into a future hump under the passenger seat. The input centerline will be close to being in line with the top of the frame. Very tall but I think it will be necessary as the ZF also hangs pretty low.

I also got busy with a flap wheel and blinged out the rear axle, should look decent with a coat of PPG ATK black. Looks like the rear truss will be here thursday so I'm hoping to have the rear axle assembled, painted, and in by the end of this weekend.
 
#25 ·
My Atlas was very tight also, had to chamfer (1" Horizontal and 1.5"vertical) the inside top corner of the frame rail to roll it up flat and above the bottom of the frame. I then added .25" fish plate on the outside of the frame and bottome as a stiffiner. Then a hole had to be cut in the floor, and part of the seat bracket had to be sacrificed. I am now in the process of covering the hole and figuring out mount for front of seat.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#26 ·
Mock up day today. Gettin tight. I have no clue where exhaust is going to go.
Image

Image


Drivetrain centerline is about 10 degrees from level. I am definatley going to do what it takes to have a flat belly except for a slight hump for the 205. I'm going to put the 205 just high enough that I won't have to modify my passenger floor for a driveshaft to clear, although I will have to make a relief for the rest of the case, however it will be hidden under the seat.
 
#28 ·
Well, the 1356-205 adapter is custom. It is a 1/2" piece of steel, more than adiquit to mount to, but if I only mount to the center, all the torque from both driveshafts will be transfered all the way up to the motor mounts, through all the parts.

My new idea is to use poly stock replacement motor mounts, 2 poly trans mounts, one in the stock location, one beetween 1256 and 205.

But a softer, rubber spring mount that would lay on top of the frame rail and mount to the t-case mounting point.
 
#30 · (Edited)
I am planning on saddling the truss to the back of the axle tube and then gusseting it with some 1/2" CR I've got along the front.
The engineer in me doesn't like the normal butt and weld in the center of the tube due to the low contact/weld area.
Image

Image

I obviously haven't touched the left side yet.

I think I am going to saddle a little more to get the top of the truss low, but comforterably clearanced, to the upper crossmember. I will match the rear of the upper crossmember to the front for more clearance.
 
Pirate 4x4
posts
19M
members
379K
Since
2000
A forum community dedicated to custom off-road vehicle owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about trail reports, builds, performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, fabrication, drivetrain, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
General 4x4 Discussions Toyota - Truck and 4Runner Vehicles & Trailers Classifieds Axles,Tires & Wheels Classifieds Jeep - Hardcore Tech